Sabtu, 24 Juli 2010

rumus knalpot racing

Generically speaking, there are 3 exhaust designs:

1. chambered

chambered muffler

chambered muffler

2. 2 pass, twin loop, or sound-cancellation design

twinloop muffler
twinloop muffler


3. straight-through

straight-through muffler

straight-through muffler


The straight-through design is when you look through the tip opening, you can see straight through to the other side of the muffler…no bends, or staggered pipes, or chambers.

The majority of popular 60mm diameter aftermarket exhausts are straight-through designs like Apex N1, Tanabe Racing Medallion or G-Power, Greddy EVO, 5 Zigen Fireball, HKS Drager or HP or SE, etc.

A twin- pass or sound cancellation exhaust has a second pipe beside the muffler tip that loops back to the front of the muffler. Mugen and HyTech make very good twin-pass exhausts.

Most stock exhausts (like the ITR exhaust) are chambered exhausts. In a chambered exhaust, the muffler pipe goes into separate chambers and an outlet pipe is staggered and not inline with the inlet pipe into the muffler.Straight-through and twin-pass designs flow much better than chambered designs. But acctualy many people think chambered design is the best muffler type for the stock cars.

A. Design Characteristics to Look For When Shopping for an Exhaust

We may want to look at what exhaust characteristics makes power:

1. Diameter is King:

The most important factor about an exhaust is the B pipe and inlet muffler tube diameters needed for your flywheel hp goal. These outer diameter sizes are suggested by SMSP. The suggested diameters assumes that the thickness of the exhaust tube is 16 gauge steel:

Most Integra owners have 1.8L engines with “bolt-ons only”. You may want to look for a 2 1/4 in. diameter exhaust to start off with. If you begin to think about big lift-long duration cams, bigger 2.5 in. collector headers, headwork, or boring out to get 2 L displacement, then go up to the next levels in diameter as determined by your power goal.

2-1/4″ up to 210HP @ the flywheel (about 180-185 whp)

2-3/8″ (60mm) up to 235HP @ the flywheel (about 200-207 whp)

2-1/2″ up to 265HP @ the flywheel (about 225-235 whp)

2-3/4″ up to 325HP @ the flywheel (about 275-285 whp)

3″ big for big HP (Forced Induction: > 275 whp)

The general rule here for sizing an exhaust is: for every 60 flywheel hp, you need 1 square inch of exhaust cross-sectional area (i.e. 60hp/square in.), in order to achieve the exhaust flow speed required for adequate exhaust gas scavenging out of the cylinder.

All aftermarket exhausts are mandrel bent these days and so this isn’t as important an issue when you compare exhausts. However, many of you prefer to have custom exhausts made for yourselves. To show you how important diameter is, a 2.8 in. crush bent exhaust will outperform a 2.25 in. mandrel bent exhaust, if the header collector and cat are 2.5 in. diameter as well and you are aiming for power above 210 whp. Don’t get me wrong, if you can get a 2.5 in. mandrel bent system, it’s the way to go. This is just to show the importance of diameter and sizing for the entire exhaust system together.

[ Aside: If you don't know what cross sectional area is, I have defined it in the article entitled "Ideas: flow velocity, flow capacity, and flow quality" in the Performance, Engine External section . If you can't be bothered to look at that thread, then use these outer diameters as a guideline for selecting the proper exhaust for you. ]

Please be careful: The diameter just behind the exhaust flange that connects the Bpipe to the catalytic converter on many aftermarket exhausts bottlenecks down to a smaller diameter, compared to the rest of the B-pipe. So check that out when you look at exhaust diameters before purchasing an exhaust. (Please see the my article on how to remove this and get better exhaust flow performance in the Performance, Engine External section).

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Other exhaust characteristics you may want to look at (but aren’t as critical as diameter) are:

2. Insulator Material in the Muffler:

Pay attention to what is used as a sound absorbing insulator in the muffler. Stay away from fiberglass or what’s called a “glass pack”. Fiberglass melts with heat over time and guess what? you become loud as shit and it’s not due to more power..it’s due to a failed muffler.

3. The Rust Factor: Stainless Steel versus Aluminized Steel versus Mild Steel

Pay attention to materials, if you live in a snowbelt area that uses road salt: get aluminised mild steel or better yet, stainless steel, so you don’t rust out your exhaust.

4. Gauge Thickness of the Tubing:

Pay attention to the gauge thickness of steel. A 16 gauge steel thickness (0.65 in.) is thicker than 18 gauge steel. The 18 gauge steels saves you about 20 lb. on an exhaust which is great for racing but can dent easily and is not as durable for the street as 16 gauge.

The same goes for titanium exhausts over stainless steel or aluminised steel. Titanium is lighter but less durable.

5. Hardware Provided

Pay attention to fitment and hardware provided like gaskets and areas for the hangers to hook on to.

Please don’t obsess over an exhaust because it makes around 2-4 whp in “bolt-on only” engine combinations. If you plan to make over 185 whp then the size of the exhaust becomes very important.

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Brayan Knalpot melayani jasa pemasangan dan pembuatan saluran gas buang sisa bahan bakar alias knalpot untuk keperluan mobil standar maupun keperluan modifikasi. Dengan motto selalu mengutamakan kepuasan pelanggan, bengkel ini berusaha memberikan pelayanan maksimal dan hasil pekerjaan terbaik.

Mengubah tampilan gaya sporty dengan tetap memperhatikan konsumsi bahan bakar sebetulnya tetap bisa dilakukan, namun dengan syarat hanya menambahkan variasi di ujung pipa pembuangan dengan memasang tail pipe custom dengan model yang berranek ragam. Tapi kalau ingin meningkatkan performa kendaraan bisa dengan mengubah header, tabung resonator sampai muffler, dan tail pipe tipe free flow.

Brayan Knalpot yang berada di jalan Lapangan Tembak No.9, Jakarta Timur dapat mememenuhi keinginan tersebut. Bahkan tidak hanya mengganti muffler racing saja, namun pelayanan jasa yang ditawarkan meliputi penggantian header, tabung resonator (penghalus suara), muffler, resonator tail pipe.

Kelengkapan alat yang dimiliki merupakan alat standar bengkel knalpot seperti alat pe-ngeroll pipa, las dan toolkit. Pilihan bahan tersedia medium, stainless dan pipa galvanis. Usaha bengkel knalpot yang berdiri sejak 1996 ini, tidak hanya melayani jasa pemasangan knalpot atau header, namun Brayan juga membuat muffler buatan local, modelnya mengikuti Carlsson.

Hal tersebut dimaksudkan agar konsumen dengan dana terbatas dan ingin tampil gaya bisa membeli muffler replika hasil buatannya. Jam buka bengkel setiap hari dari pukul 07.30 wib sampai 17.00 wib. Untuk setiap perbaikan atau pemasangan akan diberikan jaminan garansi selama 1 tahun.



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Jakarta Timur
Telepon : 021-8770 9319

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